All
along the continuum of "natural" items, choices have been created to
emulsify, stabilize and preserve--to create items sleek and creamy, keep them
clean, and provide them acceptable lifestyle expectancy. Even if consumers want
items that need to be refrigerated, distributors and retailers will not order
them because of the added costs of shipping, storing and greater liability.
Many consumers who seek that kind of freshness have been firing up their
blenders and following recipes for homemade therapies.1[1] Even these, however,
call for important oils, liquor, glycerin, lanolin, etc., which are far from
their natural origins. As reported in Strong Voices, the newsletter of the
Breast Cancer Fund, "Approximately one-third of elegance products and body
care organizations position their items as natural in one way or another . . .
But, as you might expect, some organizations are more natural than others"
(Volume 7, Summer 2005). Most those who seek out "natural" items are
looking for components whose sources they recognize, and that is why a lot of
organizations now list the source along with the scientific name of the
component, as in sodium laurel sulfate (from coconut), or lanolin (from wool).
Turpentine comes from pine trees.
My grandmother, born in 1901, swore that
Skincell Pro turpentine helped her arthritic arms, and she may have rubbed them with lard
(from bacon) afterwards to keep them as smooth as Walking out to. Perhaps lard
and turpentine are "natural," but are they suitable for the
epidermis, and along with that, what is the definition of "good?"
Again, there are no easy answers. If you have discovered this post through the
Eco-Mall, it is secure to assume that you seek out healthy and balanced
epidermis proper care that: (1) is friendly to the environment
("eco-friendly"); (2) does no damage to animals (commonly referred to
as "cruelty-free"); and (3) does no damage to the human body system
and ideally does excellent (is "body-friendly"). Let us examine
"natural" healthy and balanced epidermis proper care in light of each
of these issues. Eco-Friendly An issue rarely addressed by the aesthetic
industry is whether items are environmentally friendly. The LA Times2[2] has
reported that consumer items, such as elegance products, pump 100 tons of
pollutants daily into southern California's air, second only to auto emissions.
These pollutants come not just from the propellants in sprays and aerosols, but
also from fluorocarbons, ethanol, butane, acetone, phenols and xylem. Here's
how it works: These ingredients evaporate, and when the sun shines they combine
with other pollutants to build ozone, a primary component of smog that can
cause headaches, chest pain and loss of lung function. This happens outdoors
and indoors, which can severely compromise the great high quality of air in our
homes and offices.
There is a class of drugs called PPCPs (pharmaceutical along
with proper care products) that until recently have received relatively little
attention as potential environmental pollutants. PPCPs comprise all drugs
(prescription and over-the-counter), diagnostic agents (e.g., X-ray contrast
media), nutraceuticals, and other ingredients, such as fragrances, sun block
agents, and epidermis anti-aging preparations. When phthalates, for example, get
into rivers and lakes, they are known to affect the reproduction of aquatic
species; and musk fragrances are known to bioaccumulate.3 [3] Skincare items
may contain botanical components grown with pesticides and substance
fertilizers that are not friendly to the environment, and some may use
genetically modified plants in their botanical components. Cruelty-Free
"Cruelty-free" is often understood to mean that items are not tested
on animals; sometimes also that there are no animal-derived components in items.
Taken literally, this would imply the absence of lanolin (from wool), beeswax
or honey, dairy items, etc. Some labels specifically state there are no animal
components. Body-Friendly We suggest four criteria for evaluating
"body-friendly" healthy and balanced epidermis proper care products:
• Toxicity • Conclusiveness • Comedogenicity • Effectiveness 1.Toxicity In our
July content we discussed several components which we prefer to avoid in
healthy and balanced epidermis maintenance systems. To recap, we listed mineral
oils, petrolatum, propylene glycol, parables, phthalates, SLS and SLES.
We also
called sunscreens into question. Toxicity (to humans) of healthy and balanced
epidermis proper care components may be divided into three distinct
categories:4[4] a. Carcinogenic, referring to components contributing to
melanoma b. Endocrine-disrupting, which refers to ingredients that disturb the
human body's hormonal stability, and may interfere with its ability to grow,
create, or function normally. Endocrine disruptors may also be carcinogenic. c.
Allergenic, irritating or sensitizing, meaning consumers may have allergies or
contact dermatitis (itching, redness, rash, etc.). Individuals with multiple
substance sensitivities may become very ill when exposed to certain of these
ingredients. There are many "natural" natural skin care organizations
that consist of parables, SLES, and other of these components in their items. A
general note about preservatives: By their very characteristics additives are
harmful. They must be harmful to bacteria, molds and yeast to keep items from
spoiling. Another additive that is gaining use as an alternative to parables is
diazolidinyl urea. This additive has not been banned from use in Europe,
although some authors claim it is carcinogenic because it is a formaldehyde
donor. Although formaldehyde is a substance which occurs normally in the human
body system, formaldehyde in the gaseous state is a known carcinogen. From all
studies we have study, diazolidinyl urea, when it forms formaldehyde, does not
type formaldehyde gas. Nonetheless, when used in great enough concentrations or
even in low concentrations by persons who are especially delicate to it,
diazolidinyl urea-along with almost every other preservative-has been shown to
cause contact dermatitis.
There are also "natural" items who claim to
use no additive. Most of these contain grapefruit--or other citrus--seed oil
extract. As mentioned in Part I of this series, aesthetic chemists I have
spoken to insist that these citrus seeds would turn rancid if they were not
sprayed with preservative; that that additive is concentrated in the oil when
it is extracted; that this additive in the extract is what is actually
preserving the natural skin care product; and that the additive used is often a
parable. There are also natural skin care items that are sold in sealed
containers with airless pumps or sprayers. Although it can add significantly to
the cost of an item, this kind of packaging and delivery is extremely
desirable, as it keeps air and airborne contaminants out of the item and can
help you significantly decrease or even eliminate the use of additive. Of the
big list of possible aesthetic components, a relative few individually pose
risky, but many individuals use an array of items every day. It may be that
these risks are adding up, or that single components react with others to
create harmful combinations, known as synergistic toxicity. 2. Occlusivity The
epidermis is the human body's largest organ. The lungs breathe, and so does the
epidermis, so to speak: The "breathing" epidermis provides an exit
for harmful toxins and chemicals--respiration in the way of perspiration.
Lotions and salves that occlude this exit may initially soften the epidermis by
keeping wetness from escaping, but may actually inhibit the overall wellness of
the individual, besides weighing down the epidermis and causing it to sag and
age. Nutrients applied to the epidermis that boost the themes wellness may have
a positive influence on the whole human body, because they are absorbed into
the bloodstream through the epidermis. When we decide body-friendly healthy and
balanced epidermis proper care, two important criteria come into play: that
items not be harmful to epidermis or our bodies, and that they not are occlusive-allowing
nutritional value in and harmful toxins out.5 [5] the bonus comes when the
components that are allowed in also bring the epidermis into stability and
nourish it. This is the topic of Part III of our series of articles: What
Nutrients and Ingredients are Necessary for Healthy Skin? (Late September
2005). Here we address components found in "natural" healthy and
balanced epidermis proper care that may be occlusive and/or comedogenic. Look
up "exclusivity" on the web and you will discover hundreds of
references to exclusivity and its advantages. The key purpose why organizations
tout the advantages of exclusivity is that it holds regular water in the
epidermis.
When regular water can't escape, the epidermis stays smooth and
moist, and that sounds like a best aspect. Imagine wrapping your epidermis with
plastic wrap and wearing it around all day-an extreme example of exclusivity.
Pretty soon it would begin to stink in there as the harmful toxins that usually
escape with perspiration and usually evaporate into the air get trapped between
the epidermis and the plastic.
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